Help with Pelican Case

[M@D-M@X]

I just aquired a Pelican 1750 case which the center foam piece needs to be traced and cut out to shape, for the rifles to fit.

The instructions adivices you to use a electric carving knife to do this task.

Have any of you done this?

Is there a better wayof doing this were the end result is cleaner?

[spikes40]

i would think a sodering iron would work well once the gun is traced on

[anthony20031]

yh there was some post I read a while back, can't recall where, but he built a little contraption using a wire hanger I believe, sodering iron, batteries and a piece of playwood. Built kind of like a jigsaw...cool little contraption. I'll be in the same boat as you as I need to order some foam for the box I built and then will need to do come cutting.

[JaxChris]

Here you go.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=292695

[anthony20031]

that would be it :)

[Cris]

Nice job.

[M@D-M@X]

Here you go.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=292695

Cool thx. Chris.
It is a bit of a built for something I'm going to use once but I think it is worth the end results.

[Secpro]

Where can I buy a center foam piece?

[RCSRT8]

That was a good write up, very informative and unique. I would have butchered it with a knife.

[JaxChris]

Ummm weird. I posted the link where to get foam in here earlier, but now it's gone.

Here you go TrannyPro - http://www.foambymail.com/packaging.html

[anthony20031]

Jax, I'm assuming the best bet would be to go with the Charcoal Firm Foam?

[JaxChris]

Yes, the Charcoal Firm has the highest density and holds up best to heavy objects like firearms.

If you guys each plan to do similar work together, I would suggest putting together a 75$+ order to get the free shipping. Then you can all pitch in on the 10-20$ in material to build the rig and you all share in cutting your own pieces.

The cost of doing this and getting the empty Pelican cases is way cheaper than getting the pre-cut or pick-n-pluck options from Pelican. And it has the benefit of letting you maximize the space in the case to hold as many of your goodies as possible.

Some people getting the larger cases and cut to foam to hold all of their range gear in just that one case, which makes range day hauling/packing so much easier. Once I have more toys that is likely what I'll be doing.

[anthony20031]

Not sure if I need that much foam lol

[Secpro]

Ummm weird. I posted the link where to get foam in here earlier, but now it's gone.

Here you go TrannyPro - http://www.foambymail.com/packaging.html

:slapshoot: Thats the sight Iwas checking out at work earlier. Cool!

[anthony20031]

sure it just wasn't trannies.com???? LOL

[Satan_3pc]

Ummm weird. I posted the link where to get foam in here earlier, but now it's gone.

Here you go TrannyPro - http://www.foambymail.com/packaging.html Damn I need to order some of that egg crate foam for my home studio! Waaay cheaper than the rip off shit they sell at the music stores that I would never buy.

[JaxChris]

Damn I need to order some of that egg crate foam for my home studio! Waaay cheaper than the rip off shit they sell at the music stores that I would never buy.

The wedge and pyramid cut are way better than the standard eggcrate for sound deadening. Most studios use wedge cut.

[Satan_3pc]

Yeah, and it's more expensive too. They have like 80 by 80 inch egg crate for like $45 bucks. It's not like I can get it as dead as a real studio anyways. Not in this apartment. At least I can make my miked tracks cleaner with less noise eating up all the volume. Plus just having any type of foam on the wall helps clear up weird resonance. I get some bad 2-4k resonance in this room some times from certain pitches.

[M@D-M@X]

Yes, the Charcoal Firm has the highest density and holds up best to heavy objects like firearms.

If you guys each plan to do similar work together, I would suggest putting together a 75$+ order to get the free shipping. Then you can all pitch in on the 10-20$ in material to build the rig and you all share in cutting your own pieces.

I don't need foam and already purchased the transformer and waiting on the wire to arrive.

Once I have it built, I more than glad lend it to anyone that might need it.

[M@D-M@X]

So I built the homemade foam cutter by using 2X2s and particle board as described in that link and I think the end result was pretty good. I used a threaded rod and bent it with heat for the mast, I figured it would work best for the installation on the wooden base. I also used a ring terminal crimp connector to hook the hot wire to the mast, that made inserting the hot wire into the pilot hole of a new cut a lot easier. Since the dimmer switch is not digital, getting the right temp is tricky but once you get the trick its no issue.

http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6865.jpg http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6866.jpg http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6867.jpg http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6868.jpg

I traced the items as described to a poster board and I as read somewhere, I traced the outline about 1/4" inside of the item (If I would do this over again, I would do it about 1/8" or even 1/16". I'll tell you why later on) When tracing some of the items, you'll realize that the actual trace line does not look like the item specially in tight spots. in this situation it is best to improvise by making the lines cleaner and less complicated (Remember that what you trace, will be followed by a hot wire, so the simpler it is the easier it will be when cutting). On straight lines I used a ruler.

http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6858.jpg http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6859.jpg
The light lines are the original tracing of the item. The darker lines is where the cutting will take place approx. 1/4" inside of the original traced line and cleaned up

After the item's outlines are all traced and cleaned up, I used a X-acto knife and metal ruler with a cutting board underneath. Make sure you have a new blade since it makes a world of a difference when cutting. Once you have all the templates cut out now it's time to open the case and use the templates to figure out the best layout for your items. Remember to keep no less than 1/2" of space between items and the outer edge of the case. Once the items are in place, they will use up that space.
Once I figured out the layout I proceed to pin down the first template to the foam. This will make sure it does not move while the hot wire is running along its edges. Once pinned down, remove the foam from the case carefully and on a straight edge of the template I cut a 1" slot (pilot hole) tight along the template straight down to the back side of the foam. This pilot hole is where the hot wire will be inserted and connected back to the mast, this will be your start point. Turn on the dimmer at it's lowest setting and work your way up slowly. Be ready to respond quickly if the wire gets red hot by turning it down (These craft wires are not made to get this hot and you don't need this temperature to cut thru this type of foam) If the wire gets red hot for a second or two it will snap and you would need to replace the wire. You will find a sweet spot where the transformer will hum lightly and you will begin to see or smell light smoke. The wire will get hot enough to melt thru the foam but not burn the poster board once you find the right speed of moving the hot wire around the template. (It will burn thru the board if you leave the wire touching one spot for more than 3 second and applying pressure against it) The speed will be slow so it can be controlled and you will need to watch closely, making sure that the wire is lightly running along the edge of the template. When reaching a crucial area (very detail or a bend) slow your speed a bit for better handling of the hot wire.

http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6856.jpg http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6855.jpg

Once you've cut your first item install the foam back in the case and insert the item which was just cut for fit. If everything was done right, you should not have a problem. While the item still inserted place your next item for proper placement and this point you will start seeing why those 1/2" of space were given. Pin down the next template making sure that it is an adjacent item to the one you just did. Remove the item carefully, remove the foam off the case and repeat function as mentioned earlier.

http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6861.jpg http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6863.jpg

Below is the finished product which I think you guys will enjoy. Making a 1/4" inner trace leaves the items pretty tight in the foam, that's why I think instead of 1/4" you can due a 1/8" or even a 1/16". It's funny that I started to get better with the foam cutting towards the end but I'm still pretty satisfied with the end result.

http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6871.jpg http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6875.jpg

and now I'm left with some foam rifles for my sons to play with.....

http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz278/MAD-MAX-D-1/guns%20misc/IMG_6876.jpg

Just kidding. Actually I took out so much material that if i decide to only take one rifle instead of both, there is not enough density to hold it in place unless I glue the cut out layer to the bottom layer foam. So what I do is that I insert the cut out into place of the item that I'm not taking at this time and it works great.

Hope this helps anyone willing to tackle this task. BTW as I mentioned earlier if there is anybody willing to drive back and forth, I'll be more than glad to lend out the foam cutter.

[JaxChris]

I'm thinking I'm going to get a series of different size Storm cases for my weapons and then just put all of those in a double locker.

[M@D-M@X]

I'm thinking I'm going to get a series of different size Storm cases for my weapons and then just put all of those in a double locker.

My pelican case is only for transporting. All of my firearms are locked up in safes not just to keep away from my 3 kids but also anyone that would have the wrong intentions of breaking into my house.

[lino]

I need to get a safe....

[Secpro]

I need to get a safe....

I need to AFFORD a safe.

[lino]

I need to AFFORD a safe.

:lino:

[Secpro]

:lino:

Seriously!!!! I went to CE Safes and there prices aren't bad, just out of my damn budget.

[lino]

how much?

[Secpro]

how much?

For the ones I looked at with more theft protection and limited fire, I think it was anywhere from $1500-$2000

[lino]

For the ones I looked at with more theft protection and limited fire, I think it was anywhere from $1500-$2000


ouch, that allot of beer and steaks...

[Secpro]

my thoughts exactly

[ss1]

Still, all it takes is a loss..... I'm thinking of getting a second safe keeping my NFA stuff separate.

BTW, that foam is cut frikkin nice.

[JaxChris]

A separate fire box for trust, stamps, and thumb drive of important documents is a good idea.

[M@D-M@X]

BTW, that foam is cut frikkin nice.

Thanks. At your service

[lino]

wow I had not seen the pics... VERY IMPRESSIVE

[liquidsniper]

I totally need to borrow this from you. I have a pelican 1720 on order and will be cutting it to fit.